Battery Bank Size Calculator

How big a bank has to be to carry your load through the nights and the bad days. Enter what you use daily and how many days you want to survive without meaningful charging, and this returns the capacity in amp-hours and kilowatt-hours, then converts it into a count of actual batteries. If you already own the bank and want to know how long it lasts, that is the runtime calculator instead.

1.0 for a heated space. See the table below for cold ones.

The bottom pair is the battery you plan to buy.

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DC cable ampacity with the ambient and bundling corrections, how far each size runs at 12, 24 and 48 V, PV string fuse sizes from Isc, and battery-to-inverter current by inverter size. Three pages, made to pin by the battery bank.

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How It Works

The formula

Usable kWh needed = Daily kWh × Days of autonomy
Bank kWh = Usable kWh ÷ (DoD × Round-trip eff. × Temp derate)
Bank Ah = Bank kWh × 1000 ÷ System voltage

The three factors in the denominator each shrink what a battery gives you back, so they divide rather than multiply. Depth of discharge is how much of the bank you are prepared to use. Round-trip efficiency is the share of the energy that survives the charge and discharge cycle. The temperature derate is how much capacity the cold takes away. Together they typically leave 60% to 76% of the nameplate available as real energy, which is why a bank sized on kilowatt-hours alone always comes out too small. How many days to choose, and the van versus cabin worked examples, are in how to size an off-grid battery bank.

Worked example

A cabin using 5 kWh a day wants 2 days of autonomy on a 48 V lithium bank, at 0.8 DoD and 95% round-trip efficiency, in a space that stays above 20°C:

  • Usable energy needed = 5 × 2 = 10 kWh
  • Derating product = 0.8 × 0.95 × 1.0 = 0.76, so 76% of nameplate is usable
  • Bank capacity = 10 ÷ 0.76 = 13.16 kWh
  • At 48 V that is 13,158 ÷ 48 = 274 Ah
  • Built from 100 Ah 12 V blocks: 4 in series to make 48 V, 3 strings in parallel to clear 274 Ah, so 12 batteries
  • That installs 300 Ah, or 14.4 kWh, which delivers 10.9 kWh usable and 2.19 days of real autonomy

Rounding up to whole batteries always overshoots, and that overshoot is free margin worth keeping. Note how the answer moves if the same cabin uses lead-acid: at 0.5 DoD and 80% round trip the derating product falls to 0.40, the bank has to be 25 kWh rather than 13.16 kWh, and the battery count doubles from 12 to 24. Chemistry changes the size of the bank far more than the daily load does.

How many days of autonomy to choose

Two days is the common answer for a system with a generator or a grid connection to fall back on, three to five days for a genuinely remote installation with no backup, and one day for a van or boat that moves regularly and can charge from the alternator. More days is not automatically better: a bank sized for five days of December weather spends the other eleven months mostly full, ages on the shelf rather than in use, and costs several times what a generator and 40 litres of fuel would have. Beyond about three days, a backup charging source is usually the cheaper answer.

Temperature Derate

Lead-acid capacity is quoted at 25°C and falls steadily below it, because the chemical reaction slows down. A bank in an unheated shed in a northern winter can be down a fifth on its rating exactly when the load is highest and the array is weakest. Use the factor for your coldest expected battery temperature, not your average one.

Battery temperature Fahrenheit Capacity factor Effect on bank size
30°C86°F1.04Slightly more capacity, shorter life
25°C77°F1.00The rating condition
20°C68°F0.964% larger bank
10°C50°F0.8912% larger bank
0°C32°F0.8025% larger bank
-10°C14°F0.7043% larger bank
-20°C-4°F0.5970% larger bank

Lithium iron phosphate behaves differently. Its usable capacity barely moves above freezing, so a derate of 1.0 is fair down to about 0°C, but charging an LFP cell below 0°C damages it permanently. That is a hard prohibition rather than a derate, and it is handled with a battery management system that blocks the charge, a self-heating battery, or an insulated and heated enclosure. If your bank will freeze, solve that problem before you size it.

Once you know the bank size, the interconnect cable between the batteries and the inverter carries the entire discharge current and is one of the highest-current runs in any off-grid system. Size it with the solar cable size calculator and check the drop with the DC voltage drop calculator.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many batteries do I need for solar?

Work out the bank capacity in amp-hours first, then divide by the amp-hour rating of the battery you plan to buy to get the number of parallel strings, and multiply by however many batteries it takes in series to reach your system voltage. A 274 Ah 48 V requirement built from 100 Ah 12 V blocks needs 4 in series and 3 in parallel, which is 12 batteries. Buying one large battery rather than several small ones in parallel is generally better if the budget allows, because parallel strings share current unevenly as they age.

What is days of autonomy?

It is how long the bank alone can run the load with no useful charging, which in practice means overcast winter days. Two days is the usual figure for a system with a generator or grid backup, three to five for a remote installation with no fallback, and one for a vehicle that charges from its alternator. It is a design choice about risk and cost rather than a number the physics decides.

Why divide by depth of discharge instead of multiplying?

Because you are working backwards from the energy you need to the capacity that contains it. If you can only use 80% of a bank, then the 10 kWh you need has to sit inside a bank of 10 divided by 0.8, which is 12.5 kWh. Multiplying gives 8 kWh, which is smaller than the energy you were trying to store, and that is the tell-tale that the operation was the wrong way round.

Should I size the bank at 12 V, 24 V or 48 V?

The stored energy is identical at any voltage; what changes is the current. The same 13 kWh bank is 1,096 Ah at 12 V and 274 Ah at 48 V, and the 12 V version pushes four times the current through every cable, fuse and busbar in the system. Below about 1,000 W of continuous load 12 V is simpler and the components are cheaper; above 3,000 W, 48 V is close to mandatory because the cable sizes at 12 V become impractical and expensive.

Does a bigger bank mean I need a bigger array?

Not directly, but the two have to be matched. The bank is sized by how long you need to run without sun; the array is sized by how much energy you use per day plus whatever it takes to refill the bank after a bad spell. A large bank behind a small array simply never comes back to full, which is the fastest way to ruin lead-acid and will trip the low-voltage cutout on lithium. Once you have a bank size, check the array against it with the solar system size calculator.

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